The Sylvania Wilderness is an 18,327 acre protected area located a few miles west of Watersmeet in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan – just across the Wisconsin border. Sylvania is located entirely within the bounds of the Ottawa National Forest and is managed by the US Forest Service. With it’s mature trees and crystal clear water, it is a beautiful place!
Thursday August 17, 2023
Our two oldest granddaughters Brianna (24) and Grace (20 in late August) arrived early to help me load the two canoes and finish packing the truck.
Surprisingly cold with periods of wind and rain during the drive north. After stopping for lunch in Eagle River, we arrived at the Sylvania Wilderness Area. We followed the beautiful road through the woods.
We unloaded the canoes and gear at the Crooked Lake access. Fortunate to have a calm and cool day.
We were packed and loaded with Grace and Brianna in the big tandem canoe and me in the solo.
A loon greeted us as we started paddling. We also saw several ducks and geese on Crooked Lake.
With our excitement, we paddled nearly all of Crooked Lake much faster than expected. We made the easy portage into Mountain Lake.
We paddled along the north shoreline to find our campsite – Ermine 1.
We quickly setup camp.
The girl’s tent was in a nice flat spot with a beautiful view of the lake.
We watched a large white swan swim past.
The canoes were secure for the night and the water filter was working.
Brianna and Grace gathered firewood and started a nice campfire, even with the wet wood.
Dinner was Lasagna with S’mores. Stars came out as the clouds passed. A beautiful clear, cold night. We appear to be the only people camped on Mountain Lake tonight – perfect!
Friday, August 18, 2023
I slept poorly with my tent on a slope. With the forecast calling for hot weather, we were not prepared for a cold night in the 40’s. Brianna and I got up early and had a nice chat as the sun came up through the trees.
I got coffee going on a clear, cool and calm morning.
Grace slept in, but enjoyed a warm cup of coffee when she woke up.
Grace grilled the pork sausage for biscuits and gravy – a wonderful warm meal on a cool morning.
Brianna did dishes and I moved my tent to a better/flat spot closer to the lake.
The girls relaxed and giggled in the hammock.
As we started paddling, we noticed an unusual ring around the sun.
Our goal for the day was to try to make the 112 rod portage to Clark Lake. After one wrong turn, we found the portage in a green weedy area (the only green water we found in Sylvania). We watched 2 large white swans with 4 young cygnets.
I took the solo halfway and left it on an uprooted tree. I went back to check on the girls.
The girls were struggling to bucket carry the big canoe, so we unloaded it and put it on my shoulders to complete the portage to Clark Lake.
Grace carried the solo canoe for several rods, before I took over.
We relaxed on the beautiful sand beach and enjoyed the crystal clear water on Clark Lake.
We made the short paddle across the south end of Clark Lake to the portage to Loon Lake. We set the canoes aside and just hiked the 96 rod portage trail. Beautiful trail, big mature trees, lined with several different types of flowers. Brianna and Grace became flower girls.
We reached the end of the portage to Loon Lake and met 4 guys that just finished portaging their gear. They were nice enough to take a picture of us.
We hiked back to Clark Lake and made the quick paddle to the sandy beach for more relaxing before portaging the canoes back to Crooked Lake.
Brianna portaged the solo canoe back to Crooked Lake.
We paddled across Crooked Lake, made the short portage to Mountain Lake and back to camp. Beautiful evening. Pizza night! The girls enjoyed Creme Brule around a nice campfire.
Saturday, August 19, 2023
Wind kicked up overnight. I thought it was raining, but it was just the pine needles falling against the tent. It was another cool, clear morning, but with a strong wind. Coffee tasted great. Brianna pulled out her yarn to crochet a hat.
I finished reading “The Right Call: What Sports Teach Us About Work and Life” by Sally Jenkins. Good book.
I made breakfast burritos with scrambled eggs, cheese and Canadien bacon.
Nobody was in any hurry to paddle against the strong wind. We enjoyed a lazy morning around camp. We finally decided to paddle with the wind at our back to the portage to East Bear Lake. We pushed the canoes to the side and hiked the portage. Good thing, there were several down trees and some muddy places which would have made for a difficult portage with the canoes.
We hiked back to Mountain Lake, where the wind kept the bugs away. The girls spent much of the afternoon finding rocks and skipping stones. Brianna set the record with 6 skips.
Talked to a nice young couple from Door County. He was very interested in other wilderness canoe adventures. They and a couple of other guys with a dog that took a rest on the nice beach before tackling a long paddle into a stiff wind across Mountain Lake.
After a nice break, we made our way paddling into the strong wind back to camp. We saw a young loon, nearly full size, but with fluffy brown feathers. The parent stayed close.
The girls took a nap. I noticed an interesting mushroom that had moisture oozing out of it.
The wind died down and it became rather humid and sticky. I made Mac ‘n Cheese for dinner and the girls enjoyed dark chocolate cheesecake. The girls made a nice campfire. The bugs chased us into the tents early.
Sunday, August 20, 2023
Up early. Clear skies and no wind. The lake was like glass.
Pancakes for breakfast before breaking camp and packing the canoes. Wind picked up as we paddled back to the Crooked Lake landing. Grace walked up to the parking lot and drove the truck down to the landing. We packed the truck and loaded the canoes before heading home after a fun trip!
Steve Pelton 